How to Install LVT Click Flooring: A Step-by-Step DIY Guide

Before You Start

LVT click flooring is one of the most DIY-friendly floors on the market - but the difference between a great finish and a disappointing one is almost always in the prep, not the planks. Read the whole guide before lifting a single board.

Tools You'll Need

Tape measure, pencil, set square, sharp Stanley knife, fine-tooth saw or oscillating multi-tool, rubber mallet, tapping block, pull bar, spacers, knee pads, and a vacuum. That's it - no glue, no nails, no specialist gear.

Step 1: Acclimatise the Planks

Bring your boxes of LVT into the room 48 hours before installation. Stack them flat, unopened. This lets the planks adjust to the room's temperature and humidity, preventing post-fit expansion gaps.

Step 2: Prepare the Subfloor

The subfloor must be clean, dry, level, and structurally sound. Use a 2-metre straight edge - any dip or bump greater than 3mm needs filling with a self-levelling compound. Hoover thoroughly. A single grain of grit under a plank will telegraph through and cause clicking sounds underfoot.

Step 3: Plan Your Layout

Measure the room width and divide by the plank width. If the last row would be less than 50mm wide, trim the first row to balance the layout. Plan to run planks along the longest wall and parallel to the main light source for a more elegant finish.

Step 4: Lay an Underlay (If Needed)

If your LVT has a built-in IXPE backing, skip this. Otherwise, roll out a thin vinyl-rated underlay (1-1.5mm) with a vapour barrier on ground-floor or concrete subfloors. Tape the seams.

Step 5: Start the First Row

Place 8-10mm expansion spacers against every wall. Lay the first plank tongue-side to the wall, then angle the next plank into the short end and click it down. Continue across the room. Stagger end joints by at least 300mm row-to-row for a natural, strong layout.

Step 6: Cut Around Obstacles

Score the plank face deeply with a Stanley knife and snap along the line - no saw needed for straight cuts. Use a multi-tool for door frames and pipe cut-outs. Always cut on the face side.

Step 7: Finish the Last Row

The last row almost always needs ripping to width. Measure carefully (the room won't be perfectly square), use a pull bar to engage the click joint, and remember to leave the expansion gap.

Step 8: Trims and Reveal

Remove spacers and fit scotia, quadrant, or skirting to cover the expansion gap. Use silicone, not nails, where the trim sits over the LVT - never pin through a floating floor or you'll lock it in place and cause cracking.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Don't skip the expansion gap. Don't lay over a damp or uneven subfloor. Don't reuse damaged planks - the click joint is precision-engineered and won't re-seal if chipped. Don't fit underfloor heating LVT without checking the maximum surface temperature (usually 27°C).